“Every year during
the week leading up to Aug. 2, more than 2 million people from all over the
world, mostly from Central America and particularly Costa Rica, make their way
to the old colonial capital of Cartago east of San José in honor of the Virgen
de los Ángeles.
The tradition is
known as la romería, or pilgrimage, and the faithful followers come to the
Basílica Nuestra Señora de los Ángeles, which houses a statue of“La Negrita,”
or “Little Black One,” a 6-inch tall representation of the Virgin Mary.
According to Costa
Rican legend, La Negrita has the ability to heal by way of miracles, and
whether people come to give thanks to the Virgin Mary or to ask for her help,
most of these romeros, or pilgrims, travel by foot – some for days.
Some complete the
last few hundred meters on their knees”
La Romería:
Leading up to August 2nd I
had heard of the pilgrimage many times. I always wanted to do it, but did not
decide officially that I would until August 1st when a cab driver
convinced my friend and I. As I have made clear before, I am not religious. So
while I neither made a request from nor gave my thanks to the Virgin Mary, I
did use this opportunity to observe the incredible culture and have my own
rather amusing experience.
On August first my friends and I went
to see Batman in theaters. Outside of El Multiplaza Del Este there where many
young people making their way towards Cartago. They had drums as well as other musical
instruments, and were singing merrily. Before the movie I had convinced my
friend Brendan to come as well. I mean seriously, when are we going to be in
Costa Rica before or on August 2nd again? When are we going to have
this opportunity and amazing people to go with? While waiting for my friend
Crystal to change her clothes, Brendan and I had a beer. What better way to
start a pilgrimage at midnight than with a beer ehy? Crystal came and then we
waited for 7 of her friends to be ready. One of them was wasted, I definitely
don’t think that 7 or so beers is the way to start a pilgrimage! We walked slow
at first because one of my friends from San Joaquin was in a taxi to meet us in
front of the san Pedro Mall. No one else from San Joaquin had wanted to walk.
In total, we were a group of 11. We
started our walk in front of El Bar Y Restaurante Los Profesionales at 12:30.
After picking up my friend we trekked on until I saw a 24 hour McDonalds. Fun
Fact: I have not eaten at McDonalds in years and when I have in the past, it
has been few and far between. I took off. Crystal asked, “Where is she going!?”
To which Brendan Responded, “I am not exactly sure… she said NUGGETS!!! And
took off running”. Apparently you don’t need to be on drugs to really crave
some nuggets at 1:45 in the morning, you just need to know you have a long walk
ahead of you.
After my break we took some pictures
and spoke to some people. We saw all kinds of people of various shapes, sizes,
and shades. Some walked with their families, some were with lovers or friends,
and some were alone. Some people walked, some rode bikes, and some ran or
jogged. Although we were just walking, my personal group of 4 ended up
traveling much faster than the other 7. In fact, the drunk girl and one friend
fell very very far behind. I found out the next day that she had in fact made
it (I was surprised). After a while we officially separated from the 7 and it
was just us.. trekking… trekking.
Some individuals on the pilgrimage were
making light of it and having fun while others were very serious. I felt that
no matter which behavior one was leaning towards, that this was a pilgrimage of
devotion to one thing or another; whether that be their religious beliefs,
someone they love, or otherwise. . .
It rained. . . We sang. Joked. Laughed.
There was street food all over the
place, and I really love street food. It smells sooooo good.
By 3:30 AM we had stopped talking as
much, and began walking on auto pilot. We walked by Red Cross huts that were
treating the sick or wounded. I was very impressed by the resources available
to the public. I have gone back and read articles- of people who have had heart
attacks on the walk. Blisters and heat stroke don’t surprise me at all, and
heart attacks are understandable as well because it is mostly uphill. Actually…
It is UP MOUNTAIN. No joke. That aside, In 2005 two people actually died because
they had been hit by cars. During my
walk there were no cars, and the police lined the streets. I have heard that
they confiscate drugs from people pretty often. In the past people have been
arrested for fighting (+beating their wives), obstructing traffic, and
stealing.
Most of the Ticos were wearing scarves,
gloves, and hats at this point. They were even selling them on the side of the
road, right next to the Rosaries. I remember thinking to myself, “huh- I only
bust out gloves when it’s snowing!”.. I think my yoga capris and tank top where
a dead giveaway that I was a Gringa (not to mention my white skin and clear
lack of Spanish speaking skills). Eventually it stopped raining, and we trekked
and trekked and trekked. Every 500 meters or so there were trash cans, and
every 4 or 5 trashcans there was a nice recycling center as well. At around
4:15 in the morning, we passed people giving away free little boxes of cereal.
I have never been more happy about frosted flakes in my life! If I had more
energy I would have sang the HEY TONY song for the whole world to hear. At this
point no one else was talking either. Many people were limping. I even saw one
man walking without shoes. The streets were now filled with people-both walking
and sleeping on the sidewalks. I wanted to know where everyone was coming from! I wanted to ask them how far they had walked.
At 5 in the morning the sun began to
rise. At 5:30 we arrived. Hundreds and Hundreds were sleeping on the ground.
Hundreds were entering, some on their knees. Flowers filled the Basílica.
Thousands were standing around talking and greeting one another. I absolutely
would do this again, though I cannot imagine doing it every year. I cannot
imagine walking more than the distance that I did. I left Cartago with cuts on
the back of my ankles and blisters on my toes.
I had not slept in 24 hours, and where
did I go? Well I booked it to the Beach in Jacó
of course. Where all my non pilgrimage friends were headed and where I got to
enjoy the look of surprise on their faces when I actually made it J This is also where I learned that taxi drivers can pretty
much make the impossible happen if they know how badly you want to make a 7am
bus at the Coke station. Otherwise they just drive you around and rip you off…
… I later slept on the beach.
